Send Day - Crushing 7 Boulder Problems at Rumney
Today, while climbing in Rumney, I had my most productive day bouldering ever! I am primarily a trad climber so bouldering is not my forte, therefore I am ecstatic that I sent seven different problems today, three of which are V3!
Send List: V0, V1, V2, V2+, V3-, V3, V3.
My friend and I casually warmed up on the 15' V0 "Offset Corner". A few awkward but easy moves take you up to a ledge in a dirty left-facing-corning, then bomber stems help you top out.
Next, we conquered "Doppelganger", a V2+ that involves a dynamic traverse across a rail then a burly pull through an overhang on an incut crimp with an odd but satisfying top out into a jungle of overgrowth.
We then sent our first V3 of the day in the form of "Razor Blade Romance" (actually rated at V3- but felt more like V2-V3). This is a neighboring route with forgettable dynamic moves and a traverse on a mossy ledge.
After this, we couldn't resist repeating the ultra-classic line of "Zig Zag Crack", 15' of phenomenal crack climbing which must be the best V1 boulder in all of the US. This line is always a pleasure to climb!
After paying our respects to Zig Zag, we starting working on one of my projects–a spicy 12' V2 called "New Age". This is a fun and satisfying line full of unique moves up a slightly overhung face. It does not get much traffic because the fall line looks rather dangerous since you start in a recessed pit and there is a rock and a large mound right in your fall line as you move towards the top out. The key is not to fall! Honestly, it's rather safe with three crash pads and a spotter. This problem deserves much more traffic than it currently gets!
Having sent my gnarly project, we moved on to "Spraguesorus Arete" (V3, 15'), an interesting dynamic and side-pull adventure up an arete that is just clean enough to climb. The dyno and the burly mantel onto a bomber ledge made this problem enjoyable, although it felt more like V2-V3.
We then stepped a bit left and attempted to climb the aesthetic crimpy face of "Spraguesorus" (V5+, 15'). After some of the first few moves went but falling on the crux, we decided to save the send for a day when we are less pumped. We are coming back for you!
Since we were on a roll we decided to try "Firestarter", a V3 that my friend had been working on for months. A big dyno to an undercling and then a very delicate move with your right hand brings easy jugs to a top out. It is a short but difficult line. My friend managed to send it with ease on his second attempt like it was a warm-up lap and I crushed it immediately after!
After this final V3, we were pumped enough to call it quits for the day. We are both rather satisfied with all of our wonderful sends today and are excited to get back to Rumney soon to work on some new projects when we are fresh–"Spraguesorus", I'm talking to you!